In the Grinder - Our Daily Coffee Weblog

A few weeks ago, a group of us from Café Imports were graciously hosted by Bill Waddington and Michael Lannier of TeaSource, a specialty tea importer here in the Twin Cities. Bill is a world recognized authority on specialty tea and has been involved in the tea business for over 20 years.

We discussed the differences and similarities between tea and coffee importation and discovered that our two fields have much in common. Tea purveyors face many of the same challenges when educating consumers about social certifications, the health effects of caffeine, and proper preparation.

Like fine coffee, the world’s best specialty teas are a relatively inexpensive culinary experience, when compared to wine or other noble beverages. Even the most exquisite tea that costs $100.00 per pound only costs 50 cents per cup brewed, but many consumers still think of specialty tea (read: tea that actually tastes good) as a beverage for connoisseurs and thus out of reach for average consumers. Like coffee, the tea has been grown into a global commodity and mass-marketed in a way which has created falsely low consumer expectations for both quality and price. Much of the tea Bill imports, however, is still grown in family-owned gardens and is expertly cultivated and processed using traditional and regional techniques. And the proof is in the taste!

As Bill and Michael prepared examples of for us to taste, they educated us about proper brewing, growing, harvesting, processing, and firing techniques. We tasted examples from all six categories of tea: black, green, oolong, white, puerh, and a newly-recognized category called dark tea. Everything was delicious and subtlety complex. The most surprising aspect of these teas to me was the huge range of mouthfeel they presented. Some were incredibly creamy and thick while others were silky and delicate with just a hint of dryness. In our cupping room, we have often used the words “tannin” or “tea-like” interchangeably to describe a particular dryness some coffees possess, so I was surprised when Bill mentioned that contrary to widespread belief, tea does not contain any tannic acid.

The cupping method for tea is similar to coffee, with special rituals and guidelines which are used for evaluation. Bill and his staff evaluate 2,000-3,000 samples at TeaSource each year. Samples are evaluated by brewing in a special cup and then slurping the brew with ceramic spoons. They judge not only depth of flavor and aroma, but also a tea’s brewed and un-brewed appearance. Bill explains that a lot can be determined about the quality of a particular tea by simply examining the appearance and preparation of the leaf.

We had a great time, and are excited to return the favor when some of the TeaSource staff will join us for a comparative cupping of specialty coffees.

To continue your own tea education, visit TeaSouce.com, or better yet, buy Bill’s tea sampler, and taste for yourself.

More photos of our outing can be seen by clicking here.