Harvest Report: Peru 2020. Coffee finds a way…

Posted on October 7th, 2020

If there’s one thing we’ve learned these past few months, it’s that coffee will most definitely find a way.  

Along with our producer partners, we’ve learned to adapt to Zoom to meetings rather than zoom from place to place on airplanes, and we’ve found other ways to stay in touch and even cup together (apart). In fact, we’ve been able to find a lot of joy from seeing friendly faces on our screens—especially when they have good news to share.  

Recently, we were able to catch up with Rony Lavan, the cofounder and president of Lima Coffees, a grower’s association that represents 800 smallholder farmers in Perú’s Cajamarca department that has become our strongest partner for coffees from Perú—and wow, were we happy to see him and hear about this year’s harvest, which is wrapping up now.  

 The time I visited was around September of last year. We miss each other!” says Piero Cristiani, senior green-coffee buyer for Cafe Imports, who handles sourcing from Perú and who joined in the conversation with Rony over Zoom“We definitely miss traveling and seeing our coffee friends, our coffee partners. It’s been very different but communicating and chatting through WhatsApp and e-mail, that’s how it’s been.”  

 Piero and Rony know each other from back before Piero was a buyer, when Rony was a master cupper with another organization in Perú. They have stayed in close contact ever since, and Piero has been a huge supporter of Lima Coffees from the beginning, typically at least a couple times every year. Of course, 2020 has had different ideas—for everyone.  

“Because of the pandemic, everyone has been quite concerned,” Rony says, translated from Spanish. “Little by little, we have been adapting and obviously watching over, implementing all of the protocols for biosecurity, caring for our employees, taking care of our producers. And it worked, we have not stopped: We continued working to be able to fulfill these goals in 2020. Thanks to God, all is good, and everyone is good.”  

Good news is such a relief these days, and thankfully there was more to come: The weather mercifully cooperated with the coffee harvest, which should translate to fantastic coffees in the cup. Rony says that there was less rain than last year, which has led to both higher overall cup scores from their quality control team, as well as more opportunities to do experimentation with processes and fermentation.  

 “The producers are happy with their coffees, with their quality,” he says, and he thinks that the silver lining of Perú’s travel restrictions earlier this year contributed to some of that growth—though, of course, it wasn’t easy. (Spoiler alert: It’s never easy.)  

While many farmers in Cajamarca rely on pickers who come from other parts of the country to harvest coffee, this year there was a ban on interdepartmental travel, which meant that farmers needed to rely on themselves and their families to collect the coffee. For some, that meant spending large amounts of time in their own fields for the first time in a while, allowing them to pay close attention to ripeness and selectivity, to take extra care of the plants, and to feel better organized with their crops. While early reports in the coffee sector predicted as much as 30 percent drop in yields due to labor shortages, Rony says that Lima Coffee’s producers actually only a 5 percent decrease—and scores in the upper 80s, so far.  

“We have grown a lot in the number of producers, too. We started [in 2016] with 300 producers, and year after year the Lord sends more producers, because they see the excellent opportunity to become part of the project. And getting better year after year—improving quality and also improving their quality of life,” Rony says. His goal for next year is to work with 1,000 smallholders, and to expand Lima Coffee’s representation within new regions to provide more opportunities for farmers to access the specialty-coffee market.  

 One of the ways Lima Coffees seeks to ensure those opportunities for farmer members is by investing in infrastructure, specifically to aid with fermentation and drying. Rony says that in the first years of Lima Coffees’ existence about 30 percent of the producers had fermentation and drying equipment that would allow them to focus on specialty coffee; as of this year, he says that figure is 80 percent, and growing.  

 “The great advantage we have is to have committed producers who are satisfied with us and with the organization,” he says. We have many tasks in mind: exploring new areas, focus on the microlots, and we already have a project to have a home for ourselves”—a new, modern office and laboratory where Lima Coffees can see the workers, see the coffee loaded and unloaded, and build a deeper relationship with the coffee they love.  

Our offerings from Perú, which largely come through Rony and his network of producer associates, reflects the great range of diversity and qualities that Cajamarca has to offer. Regional Selects from districts like San Ignacio, Chirinos, Huabal, and San José de Lourdes not only allow us to really home in on differences in terroir and producer style, but also allow us to identify truly exceptional lots and recognize the producers with microlots.  

 Usually when I visit we cup almost every day when we don’t go out to the farms,” Piero says of his sourcing collaborations with Lima Coffees. But I think in general we’ve been working with Rony for such a long time that he knows the quality that we like and the quality this year has been very good. We’ve had some very good results this year.” Piero expects to see samples for microlot-quality coffee in the next couple of weeks. 

 Also, this year, Rony says the organization is doing more specific lot separation for the Regional Selects, “with more savored fruits like berries into one container, and flavors like those in Yellow Caturra, which may be a bit more floral, into another container.” This will allow our customers to really pinpoint the profiles they are looking for, and to develop relationships with particular regions where Lima Coffees works.  

  “The great advantage we have is to have committed producers who are satisfied with us and with the organization,” he says. We have many tasks in mind: exploring new areas, focus on the microlots, and we already have a project to have a home for ourselves”—a new, modern office and laboratory where Lima Coffees can see the workers, see the coffee loaded and unloaded, and build a deeper relationship with the coffee they love.  

So, there are some silver linings to all of this: Better quality, the chance to focus on growth and innovation, and, perhaps the fact that absence makes the heart grow fonder. We look forward to an in-person reunion in Perú with our friends sometime very soon, but in the meantime it is our great pleasure and privilege to be able to present their coffees to you.   

 Offerings from Lima Coffees are in our warehouse now, as well as arriving soon. Click here to browse our current and upcoming inventory, and to request samples or find out more information.